Words: Fred Silver Photographs: Jan Goris
The extent of the modern food revolution was driven home to me by the wonderful tastes of a meal at Scorrybreac on the second night they were open in Portree this year – Oatmeal crusted crowdie soufflé, with Talisker whisky and honey reduction; Mozzarella
Mille-feuille with roast courgette and aubergine; and Peanut butter fondant with malt ice cream.
Keen readers will note this is a vegetarian choice, and of course, vegetarians, until recent times, were usually offered just pasta and omelettes in many restaurants.
In contrast, this was a truly memorable meal, going straight into my Top Ten, with a plethora
of tastes and textures which, with every mouthful, reminded me what a great pleasure good food can be.
Scorrybreac, which opened in Spring 2015, in the premises that formerly housed the Harbour View restaurant, followed on from a two-year seasonal pop-up project which Calum Munro operated out of his childhood home not far away.
The menu centres on high quality, locally sourced ingredients and
blends tradition and invention in the dishes on the ever-changing menu.
No stranger to high-calibre cuisine having worked in one of Skye’s Michelin-starred restaurants, Kinloch Lodge, and the opulent and demanding environment of an up-market Parisian restaurant, Calum was always keen for his new venture to place the emphasis on the food – and, on the basis of my experience, he has done this successfully.